The Merivale Empire is spreading its wings, yet again, with chef-of-the-moment Dan Hong at El Loco's helm. This authentic Mexican restaurant is more pub snack food than fine dining but it hasn't stopped the hoards lining at the doors. It seems $5 tacos (and perhaps a glimpse of Hong working his magic in the kitchen) are what Sydneysiders are going crazy about.
El Loco is the latest addition to the Justin Hemmes Merivale empire, headed up by up-and-coming chef Dan Hong. Attached to the side of renowned Excelsior Hotel pub, El Loco has a crazy contagious atmosphere that, on passing through the baby blue doors, you suddenly feel excited.
The place is full to the brim with gaggles of girls, bands of beer-drinking boys, and an after-work suit crowd desperately in need of a drink. My dining guest and I loiter around the bar area, eyeing the crowds and prowling up and down the concrete floored room like jaguars, ready to pounce on any table that shows signs of possible desertion.
Finally scoring a seat, we are perfectly positioned in the centre of the action, surrounded by high-topped tables covered in Mexican oil-cloths in outrageous floral and checked prints, encircled by an assortment of colourful metal stools. There is also a cosy corner down the back (the most enviable position of the loitering crowd) with some mismatched sofas and milk crates that have been embedded with colourful cushions on top. The vibrant wall mosaics are a melange of painted cactuses and plastered pictures of Frida Kahlo, Mexican skeletons and sharks eating tacos, and the place is surrounded by cacti and corn growing out of huge pots. The effervescent fit-out is the work of Sibella Court from Society Inc.
After a quick look at the menu, I'm almost positive that this isn't authentic Mexican cuisine, with the likes of lemongrass beef and tofu tacos, and the famous Excelsior Hot Dog. But having said that, the spicy, colourful tastes that typically characterise Mexican food are all there, and all the dishes are absolute booze-soakers.
The market grilled fish is accompanied with a shaved fennel, cabbage and coriander salad, and dressed with salsa verde. It is delicious, and incredibly fresh. The salsa verde is more of a chilli-infused guacamole, rather than a traditional Italian sauce. Technicality aside, the punchy flavour is still there.
The vibe is exciting, and the place is full of character. With the right crowd, a taco in your left hand and tequila in the right, you are undoubtedly in for a loco night.
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